教師資料查詢 | 類別: 期刊論文 | 教師: 蘇仕 SU, SHIH FENG (瀏覽個人網頁)

標題:Modeling two-dimensional infragravity motions on a fringing reef
學年106
學期2
出版(發表)日期2018/04/01
作品名稱Modeling two-dimensional infragravity motions on a fringing reef
作品名稱(其他語言)
著者Shih-Feng Su; Gangfeng Ma
單位
出版者
著錄名稱、卷期、頁數Ocean Engineering 153, p.256-267
摘要This study investigates infragravity motions on a two-dimensional fringing reef with a concave topography using a wave-resolving nonlinear Boussinesq wave model. The effect of bathymetric nonlinearity on spatial variations of infragravity waves is studied from shore-normal incident random waves. The model is first verified from cross-shore/alongshore significant wave height, wave setup and infragravity wave height measured in laboratory experiments. The modeled velocity is further examined to elucidate the infragravity-wave current field. Wavenumber-frequency velocity spectra show that cross-shore infragravity motions are controlled by the leaky waves, while alongshore infragravity motions exhibit edge waves characteristics. Additionally, high-mode edge waves prevail on the entire infragravity frequency band while low-mode edge waves are dominant at very low frequencies. Furthermore, the model results illustrate the spatial and temporal variability of wave-induced nearshore currents, alongshore and cross-shore flows accompanying with circulation cells and rip currents. The infragavity-wave current field is nearly identical to the mean current field and the circulations develop at the same spatial scale as the reef flat.
關鍵字Infragravity waves;Edge waves;Circulation;Fringing reef
語言英文(美國)
ISSN
期刊性質國外
收錄於SCI;
產學合作
通訊作者Shih-Feng Su
審稿制度
國別英國
公開徵稿
出版型式,電子版
相關連結
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