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標題:數值模擬亞重力波在珊瑚裙礁地形之空間分布
學年104
學期1
出版(發表)日期2015/09/01
作品名稱數值模擬亞重力波在珊瑚裙礁地形之空間分布
作品名稱(其他語言)Numerical Modeling to Investigate the Spatial Variations of Infragravity Waves on Fringing Reefs
著者蘇仕峯; 馬鋼鋒
單位
出版者
著錄名稱、卷期、頁數海洋工程學刊 15(3)頁169-178
摘要本文利用完全非線性Boussinesq波浪模式研究亞重力波在各種珊瑚裙礁地形之空間變化,以數值試驗模擬波浪通過一系列不同礁坡坡度與礁坪水深之理想裙礁地形。固定入射波浪與礁坪寬度,模式結果顯示淺水礁坪的情況下(約1.0~2.0m),近岸亞重力波總能通量對於礁坡坡度相當敏感,在較陡之礁坡(1/5~1/20),其隨著坡度增加而增強,反之,在相對平緩之礁坡(1/20~1/60),其隨坡度減緩而增加。在空間分布上,淺水時最大的亞重力波約在礁緣及沙灘趾,而最小則出現在礁坪中間。水深增加時,亞重力波朝岸向增加並伴隨較顯著的震盪。此外,模式結果顯示亞重力波駐波結構,隨著礁坪水深增加與礁坡減緩而更為明顯,其頻率隨礁坪水深增高而平移至較高頻域。本研究所模擬亞重力波於裙礁之空間分布,提供一個珊瑚礁環境中漂沙與地貌之蘊含。
Spatial variations of infragravity waves over various fringing reefs were investigated using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq model. Numerical experiments were conducted using a series of idealized fringing reef morphology with varying forereef slope and reef-flat water depth. With a given incident wave condition and a reef-flat width held constant, model results revealed that the nearshore infragravity energy fluxes were sensitive to the forereef slope in the shallow reef-flat water depth (1.0 ~ 2.0 m). On the steeper slope (1/5 ~ 1/20), the nearshore infragravity energy flux increased with increasing slope. Inversely, it increased with decreasing slope on the milder slope (1/20 ~ 1/60). The model results clearly exhibited nodal structure patterns of infragravity waves across the reef flat became significant with increasing reef-flat water depth and decreasing forereef slope. Largest infragravity energy fluxes occurred around the reef edge and nearby the beach toe while the minimal appeared on the middle of the reef flat in the low water depth. In the high water depth, the infragravity energy fluxes increased toward the beach toe with the strong fluctuation. Additionally, the nodal infragravity frequencies shifted to higher frequency with increasing reef-flat water depth. The presence of modeled infragravity motions on fringing reefs provided significant implications for sediment transport and geophysical processes on reef environments.
關鍵字珊瑚裙礁;亞重力波;波譜;Boussinesq模式;fringing reefs;infragravity waves;wave spectrum;Boussinesq model
語言中文
ISSN1683-5972
期刊性質國內
收錄於
產學合作
通訊作者
審稿制度1
國別中華民國
公開徵稿
出版型式,電子版
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