教師資料查詢 | 類別: 期刊論文 | 教師: 蘇仕 SU, SHIH FENG (瀏覽個人網頁)

標題:Boussinesq modeling of spatial variability of infragravity waves on fringing reefs
學年103
學期2
出版(發表)日期2015/06/01
作品名稱Boussinesq modeling of spatial variability of infragravity waves on fringing reefs
作品名稱(其他語言)
著者Su, Shih-Feng; Ma, Gangfeng; Hsu, Tai-Wen
單位淡江大學水資源及環境工程學系
出版者Kidlington: Pergamon Press
著錄名稱、卷期、頁數Ocean Engineering 101, pp.78–92
摘要Spatial variations of infragravity waves on fringing reefs are studied using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation model FUNWAVE-TVD. The effects of bottom roughness, forereef slope and tidal water level on significant wave height, wave setup and infragravity wave motion are investigated. Model results show that the cross-shore distributions of significant wave heights and setups are reasonably reproduced using the calibrated bottom friction coefficient. However, the infragravity wave heights over the reef flat are under-predicted. Spatial variations of infragravity waves at different tidal water levels exhibit distinct patterns. Spectral peaks and valleys on the reef flat, indicative of the generation of standing infragravity waves, are observed in the measurements and reproduced by the model. It is demonstrated that the model is capable of simulating the generation and propagation of infragravity motions on fringing reefs. The effects of relative submergence and inverse wave steepness on infragravity waves are investigated through a series of numerical experiments. The results demonstrate that the relative submergence has significant effects on the distributions of infragravity waves on the fringing reef. The maximum infragravity wave height decreases with increasing relative submergence at the reef edge. However, it increases with increasing relative submergence at the inner reef flat.
關鍵字Fringing reef;Infragravity waves;Boussinesq wave model
語言英文
ISSN1873-5258;0029-8018
期刊性質國外
收錄於SCI;
產學合作
通訊作者Su, Shih-Feng
審稿制度
國別英國
公開徵稿
出版型式,電子版,紙本
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